30.8.10

26.8.10

Plans to demolish Astoria in Brighton

Plans to demolish Astoria in Brighton (From The Argus): Oh no! what will happen to my murals?? We can't let this happen...

L'illusionniste at the Cameo


Cameo cinema
Originally uploaded by fred pipes
There's a scene in Sylvain Chomet's beathtakingly beautiful L'illusionniste (The Illusionist) in which the Jacques Tati character stumbles into the Cameo cinema, in which Mon Oncle is playing (there's also a poster for Belleville Rendez-vous outside!). We see the interior with a few rows of seats dotted here and there with people, and its classical columns and arches either side. And I'm watching the film in that very same cinema - how cool is that?

An animated cartoon film about a conjurer? That's about as daft as putting a ventriloquist on radio - but it works, the tricks are just as beguiling! It's also about the death of variety, which is pretty ironic as here we are 50 years later and all around all manner of live acts are entertaining the punters in the Edinburgh Festival Fringe. Some people have said the film is slow moving, but the pace is about what you'd expect in a Tati film - it's based on an unpublished script of his, written in 1956. Its glory is in the gorgeous drawing and attention to detail - from the awesome panoramas of the Western Isles (it has to be seen on the big screen) and the aerial tracking shots of 1959 Edinburgh to the chip shop menu, the cars and buses and the many steam trains (I spotted 4472 Flying Scotsman near the end and the others depicted looked spot on). The sound effects are also remarkable. Wet and hilly Edinburgh has never looked so beautiful. If you do go, take some tissues - it's ultimately a sad and moving story - and don't leave before the credits have rolled - there's a bonus bit at the end!

3.8.10

Westward Ho! to Wales


Worm's Head Ale
Originally uploaded by fred pipes
Continuing my exploration of Britain's extremities, I left Bristol on Monday 26 July and crossed the border under the tunnel into Wales. The objective was the smallest city in the world - St David's, a name that often appears on BBC weather maps. But first I had to visit that mini-extremity the Gower Peninsular, a district made famous by map-drawer Neil Gower (I wish I could find that postcard he drew!). I headed for Swansea, Freedom of South of Wales Flexi-Rover in my hand (but see my rant about it), and stopped off at Swansea Market for some laverbread and cockles to sustain me. Hmm, I love seaweed but the small 'teb' at £2 was far too much for me. The-hot-off-the-griddle Welsh cakes however were yummy. I only had time to pop my head into the famous Kardomah cafe, before catching the 118 bus to Rhossili. The bus journey wasn't as scenic as I'd hoped, with just tantalising glimpses of far-off bays through hedges, and it didn't go to Port Eynon either. When we arrived at the extremity, my heart sank, seeing a long long walk downhill ahead of me (and the corresponding long walk uphill back). However, an unprepossessing pub beckoned and with a pint of Tomos Watkin's Worm's Head Ale in my hand I went out into the beer garden at the back to be presented with the most amazing sight! Bar Helvetia (named after the 1887 wreck on the beach) of the Worm's Head Hotel must have one of the world's most outstanding views.

After an unsuccessful trip to find the Mumbles and a night at the excellent Alexander Hotel in Uplands (£35 a night), I set out west again (a train ride with wonderful views of the coastline) to the ancient city of Carmarthen, my base camp for St David's. But first, to get my steam railway fix, I made a bus detour to Bronwydd Arms - no not a pub, but the station for the Gwili Steam railway. As I puffed down the 1/4 mile hill from the bus stop, the train was just about to leave, but a chap in a hi-vis very kindly made it wait until I'd bought my ticket (£4 with senior and Rover discounts). The train was in two halves: the front were all having an optional cream tea; the rest were in the back two carriages. At the end of the line at Danycoed I discovered we were being hauled by Haulwen, a Vulcan Foundry 0-6-0ST, and there were several other industrial locos dotted about in various states of repair. After an apple slice in the cafe and a tour of the signal box, I headed back to the smart Spilman Hotel (£54 a night).

Wednesday 28 July was St David's day, so I got a train to Haverfordwest (which had another castle and looked like a nice place to visit) and the 411 bus to St David's. After a near miss head-on with a white van on the narrow roads and some spectacular views at Newgale, we arrived at the village. I was expecting a mini-cathedral like the one in Kirkwall, Orkney, but just down a lane, in a dip was the full-size deal! Plus a ruined Bishop's Palace behind. I had a very nice bowl of tomato and basil soup in the refectory and a walk round - the misericords and roof caught my eye. The real extremity on the coast looked like a long walk away, so as I had a while to wait for the bus back, had a pint in the only pub in the city, The Bishop's.

Thursday I was heading back to Swansea to stay with my friend from late-1960s Guildford, Loppy, but for a bonus trip decided to head to Tenby, a place I'd seen on the tv programme Coast, and the most popular place in the whole of Wales, judging by how ramjam packed with kids the two-carriage diesel was! At Tenby I discovered a cafe with a fabulous view, appropriately called Caffe Vista, had a quick whizz round the town and back onto the train for Swansea and a coffee with Loppy and her friend Julie in The Mumbles. And Friday it was the long journey home, changing at Cardiff and Bristol. Job done! Some great views and a steam train.

Other extremities:

John O'Groats and Orkney

Margate and Ramsgate

Dungerness

PS. Obviously, I didn't set out from Westward Ho! This Devonshire village has the only place name in the UK with an exclamation mark. Unfortunately, the Transport font, designed by Jock Kinneir and Margaret Calvert between 1957 and 1963, used for all UK road signs, doesn't have an exclamation mark!

2.8.10

Bristol: Thekla and Brunel


The real Mr Brunel
Originally uploaded by fred pipes
When I was thinking of relocating from Guildford back in 1987, Bristol was on the list. It's arty, what with the Watershed and Arnolfini, near water and has that industrial chic. Brighton won out, however, but I was back in Bristol on Saturday 24 July to see a performance of Viv Stanshall's Stinkfoot at the Thekla, the ship he called 'The Old Profanity Showboat', where it was first performed in 1985. I knew nothing about Stinkfoot or what to expect, so in a moment of madness booked two nights at the YHA, based on price and its fabulous location right on the dockside. The downside was that I had to bunk up with snoring strangers and brave its ferocious showers!

Originally co-written with his wife Pamela Ki Longfellow and based on a children's book she'd written, this production was more of a promenade showcase, with songs belted out by many of the original performers (including Nikki 'B' Lamborn, Jon Beedell, and Pete Coggins), narrated splendidly by a stubbly Tony Slatterly, with Pete Moss conducting an amazing band squashed into the right hand of the stage and auditorium, and Viv and Ki's daughter Silky Longfellow-Stanshall taking centre stage as Elma the Electrifying Elver. Cats it wasn't, but I must confess that in the first half it was sounding like Meatloaf meets Tina Turner (or Janis Joplin?), what with all the big voices, but it got better in the second half, the highlight of which was the appearance of Viv's ukulele! To my shame, the only songs I recognised were the lament 'I'd rather cut my hands' and the show-stopper 'No time like the future' but we joined in where we could - others had a Brechtian/ Tiger Lillies / Nigel Burch / Foster & Gilvan feel to them - must investigate them further (listening to 'Dog Howl in Tune' now). See some of Mark Garland's photos of the show here.

So, Stinkfoot over and a sleepless night in a top bunk, it was Sunday 25 July and time to explore Brunel's Bristol. After a pleasant walk by the 'floating harbour' (shame the steam harbour railway wasn't operating), I was first visitor into SS Great Britain. This attraction must get a prize for best ticket (and for the £9.50 you can revisit for a year) and the ship itself is fabulous! First you get to go 'underwater' to visit the hot dry dock in which it was built, with a close up view of the revolutionary propeller and balanced rudder - and all the holes in the iron hull!) then through an exhibition (where you get the opportunity to stamp your ticket!) and finally onto the weather deck (curiously low and flat, compared with modern day cruise liners!) - and then below! There's a lot to see, from the cramped berths, even in 1st Class, to the steam engine, only ever meant to spring into action when the wind dropped, the promenade deck full of light and where they stabled the horses in the bow. As I was leaving, I chanced upon Mr Brunel himself strolling about and took a photo. As I left, a huge queue was getting longer, so get there early!

I took the 60p ferry across the water and met my IllustratorsUK friend June Goulding, for a soup in the Museum and Art Gallery and a bus trip to Clifton to see Brunel's Suspension Bridge. Now, I have a bit of a phobia about bridges, and this is a bit of a tall one! We joined the 3pm tour, but soon got bored and decided to go it alone. Phew! Don't look down! Well, I made it across, and after a visit to the shop, we came back along the opposite side, with a view of the Giant's cave where Brunel's original scheme would have terminated and the sight of a couple of brave chaps clambering up the cliffs on ropes. Then it was back to the YHA to grab a better bed, a pint at the Llandoger Trow (I preferred the Bath Ale at the YHA to be honest), and - tired and aching - to bed before heading off to South Wales the following morning.

PS. At breakfast at the YHA, I made a piece of toast and presented it on a plate to the counter assistant, asking for baked beans and scrambled egg to be placed on top. She arranged the cooked food neatly around the toast! This revelation started quite an interesting thread on Facebook, some people asserting that beans would make the toast soggy. I say that's the whole point! The clue is in the name: beans on toast.

PPS. Another treat was to see 71000 Duke of Gloucester in the sidings just outside Bristol, ready to haul the Torbay Express.

31.7.10

A rant about Rail Rovers



A Rail Rover is a great idea - in theory - you get 4 out of 8 days unlimited travel by train and some of them even include ferries and buses, especially important in Scotland and Wales where English bus passes are not recognised. So, for my latest trip around South Wales I wanted to buy a Freedom of South Wales Flexi Rover. That's £54 (or £35 with senior railcard) for four days train and eight days bus travel. So far, so good. However I then discovered that you can't buy one online, the man at the end of the Arriva phone line had never heard of them ('Did I want a season ticket?', he asked) and Brighton ticket office said I could only buy one 3 days in advance. So on my day of travel, I popped into the Travel Centre at Brighton station and bought one (I'd already bought my tickets to Bristol and back from the Great Western website). Trouble was, when I first tried to use it, I was informed by the guard that I'd been given in fact a 3 in 7 Rover! Not good at all...

I'd neglected to print off the list of buses I could use and a map of the rail lines covered, so at Swansea I popped into their Travel Centre and got my 'pack', with map, vouchers and the all-important list of bus companies participating. This was to become very useful. The assistant was bemused by the 3 in 7 bit, as these don't really exist, but couldn't exchange my ticket for a proper one - I would have had to buy another Rover and try to get my money back at Brighton. But as I'd already used a day's worth (the guard had kindly filled in the first box - of four! - for me!) I decided to risk it and maybe forget to cross off one or two of the days. My first encounter with a bus was my trip to the Gower. The driver scratched his chin insisted they didn't take them and I had to stump up £4 for a Gower Explorer day ticket! That bus company was on the list, and after that experience I underlined the bus companies I was attempting to get journeys out of in the pack brochure and stuck it under their noses!

Granted, it got easier the further west I travelled, but it was embarrassing to be viewed with suspicion every time I wanted to make a bus journey. I put it down to the design of the pass. First, it's flimsy for something that will be in constant use for 8 days, plus it says Rail Rover in big letters at the top - nothing about buses! On my travels I spotted loads of posters on stations for the 'Freedom' pass, but nobody had informed the bus drivers about it! Why not a more substantial pas, with Rail and Bus Rover in big letters and a list of the bus companies covered on the back. But maybe that's what they should look like and Brighton sold me a dud! Next time, I'll wait to buy my Rover in the area I'll be needing it in - or online if they'll let me - like last year's Scottish Rover.

PS. And why can't they print the Rovers on card that you can actually write on without it smudging?

6.7.10

Top 5 Isle of Wight attractions


Shanklin cliff lift
Originally uploaded by fred pipes
The Isle of Wight is a bus pass paradise. Almost all the bus routes radiate out from Newport, in the middle of the island, and all buses go to the seaside. Get yourself a Southern Vectis timetable and the isle is your oyster! It also includes useful town centre maps. There are one or two complications however: some routes, such as the 7 to Alum Bay, go three different ways (why not call them 7a, 7b and 7c I wonder?) so check the small print. Another swizz is that some destinations, such as the Needles Batteries and Shanklin Esplanade, are only accessible by Breezer buses, and they cost a tenner for a day ticket (but you do get an open-top ride and an informative running commentary). We were staying in a lovely thatched cottage in Carisbrooke (on all the 7 route variants), close to Newport, so were ideally placed to explore the island. Here are my top five attractions.

1 Isle of Wight steam railway
The steam railway is a fragment of what was once an extensive rail network, now mostly cycle paths. It goes from nowhere (Smallbrook Junction, where it meets the Island Line, the official railway from Ryde Pier to Shanklin which uses old London tube trains, but no other way off the platform) to the middle of nowhere (near Wootton, but thankfully near a 9 bus stop). The main station, Havenstreet, is where the shop, shed, cafe and museum is. The locos are mainly industrial Hunslet saddle tanks, thought they have a couple of Terriers and there's a strange 'O2' Class 0-4-4T No W24 Calbourne being restored and almost ready for action. There's also a workshop where some amazing carpentry is going on.

2 Needles Old Battery
Every visitor to the Isle wants to see the Needles, and the best place is from the Old Battery, right at the western tip of the island. The bus only goes to Alum Bay, so it's either a long walk along the cliff top or a hair-raising ride on the Breezer. Cars can only go as far as the £4 Alum Bay car park. It costs to go in, but the view from the searchlight tunnel is well worth it. And there are explanatory cartoons everywhere by Eagle and Lion artist Geoff Campion. The New Battery (closed on Mondays) is further up the hill and is where secret rocket tests were held.

3 Cowes chain ferry
I love ferries, and this one is similar to the chain one at Poole Harbour. It also reminded me of the ferry between North Shields and South Shields. I went from East Cowes to Cowes (there is no West Cowes!) and it's free for pedestrians and cyclists. Unfortunately, unlike Poole, you can't get the bus over it! There is nothing to see at East Cowes (except Osborne House) and Cowes reminded me a bit of Falmouth or Hastings old town, with its pedestrianised high street, running parallel to the sea. Couldn't find a pub with a sea view!

4 Carisbrooke Castle
This is one big castle, bang in the middle of the island. Our cottage was at the bottom of the hill, by a ford, and used to be a tea rooms catering to the tourists who arrived by train. There is no station now, so most people arrive by coach (no bus goes up the hill!). It houses a museum, with cases on local legends Robert Hooke (born in Freshwater), Tennyson and the pioneer seismologist John Milne. The biggest claim to fame is that it was prison to Charles I and his two youngest kids. It also has a donkey-powered treadmill well.

5 Shanklin cliff lift
This took some finding. When I first went to Shanklin I had no idea where to find the sea! So I headed for tourist information and got some directions to the Lift. It's not signposted or easy to find, though it's visible from Sandown! The Victorian lift, build 1891, must have been a great thrill to travel in, with its windows and huge drop, but the 1960s version is just a concrete tower with a bog-standard office block lift built in. The original cost 1d down; 2d up - the modern one was a pound return. The esplanade down below - and pubs such as the Steamer inn - isn't accessible by regular bus, but a Breezer does go there. Another way down is via Shanklin Chine, lit up at night.

Steephill Cove

Other attractions include:
Steephill Cove, and crab sandwiches
Brading Roman Villa, with its mosaic of a chicken-headed man
Osborne House, home of Victoria and Albert
Model village at Godshill
Alum Bay chair lift
Boat trip around the Needles from Yarmouth

Other visits to the Isle of Wight:
April 2009
April 2008

Other blogs:
Roundhill Rob was another holidaymaker staying at our cottage
The Lost Promenade visited Shanklin and Sandown

More photos on Flickr.

14.6.10

BBC News - Art deco brightens up Brighton's Astoria cinema site

BBC News - Art deco brightens up Brighton's Astoria cinema site: my murials make the BBC website - big time at last for the dilettante artist / semi-retired illustrator!