Dan and Ben Salter
And I forgot to mention that I went on a coach trip to Aldermaston (atom bomb factory) on Easter Monday, to 'Ban the Bomb'. Much amusement was caused by the sign that prohibited photography - and sketching! The police were serious too, even tho all that could be seen through the fence were nondescript buildings! Lots of stirring speeches and a grand day out.
Following on from the last blog entry, The Hare and Hounds (aka The Hairy Hounds) is just round the corner from me and I must have been in it twice in the past 20 years, but never before upstairs. (Last time was to see local soul band The Champions.) Downstairs on Saturday night was an enthusiastic young punk band The Eleven 37s, but upstairs it was the Rockabilly Jamboree! Gorgeous Rusty was on the door and I'd just missed the support band, so I got a pint of Bombardier and settled down for Jailbait, with Andy Roberts. But it wasn't just Jailbait, there was also burlesque! Including a distressed damsel tied to a cactus, the attack of the 50-foot woman, and of course, Stella Starr in full cowgirl gear. Earlier I'd popped down to the opening of Red Mutha on Trafalgar Street where my old clubbing chum Marky Charles of London was playing with his band Gobsausage. They were very exciting, with lots of noise, naughty gimpishy nudity and microphone throwing! True essence of punk. The kids were gobsmacked!
I've lived in Brighton for over 20 years now, but there are still parts of it to discover - Kemp Town, for example. Last night I met my uke chums Foz? and Peter plus Lisa at a pub I'd never been to - 'the home of the blues in Brighton' The Ranelagh Arms, on a little side road called High Street, for a quick pint before repairing round the corner to Bom-Bane's on George Street. Now I'm sure I've been here before when it was something else, but now it's more an art installation than a restaurant (see it to believe it!), and on alternate Tuesdays they have music downstairs, curated by Jane Bom-Bane's son Rudi. It kicked off with a quartet of violin, Rudi himself on mandolin, banjo and a guitarist singing some sweet songs, with co-proprietor Nick Pynn precariously perched on the spiral staircase fiddling, not with his usual instrument, but with the sound mixer. The tiny space was packed but not uncomfortable and took me back to 1969 and the Arts Lab, when troubadors like Roy Harper, Brigid St John and John Martin would stop by. Artistes were seemingly picking from the instruments hanging on the wall (Nick's?) and playing them! Next up were the mandolin and clarinet duo James and Alex who for me were the stars of the night: lovely voices, excellent songs. The first half concluded with Gabriel Byrne who was OK but whose guitar was annoyingly out of tune. As everyone jostled to buy more Belgian beer, two strange figures sat calmly waiting to start the second half: an African warrior with black feather head dress and a dreadlocked chap in glasses with gourd things on their laps. Music was coming from somewhere, but was it a tape? or was it really eminating from those enigmatic globes. No musician movement could be detected! It was Linos Wengara Magaya and Tim Lloyd from Zimbabwe playing Mbiras (thumb pianos) and even though I couldn't understand a word of the vocals the hypnotic sound really communicated a happy atmosphere. Then, the highlight of the evening, a magical unaccompanied duet from Jane and her beautiful barmaid about a journey around Brighton, ending up at - Bom-Bane's. Top of the bill Sam Beer down from London, was, well very top-of-the-bill! He was a pleasant enough chap and a very accomplished guitarist, but the songs were just the slightest bit dull. Carrier pigeon take me home! The audience, most of whom weren't even born when I moved to Brighton, loved him though, and overall it was a top night out for 3 quid, with not one dud on the bill. Must go back there and try the food!
Last Tuesday I was phoned by my chum Patricia, who works at Age Concern - she had 24 hours to round up three volunteers to be on telly, riding around on a bus, talking about bus passes. Naturally, being a media tart, I jumped at it. I cycled to Hove Bus Depot and met up with the others, one of which, by complete coincidence, was Clarion Social Secretary Ed Furey! So, along with presenter Max Cotton, bus supremo Roger French and a lady tory councillor, we rode around Brighton filming a piece for Sunday's Politics Show, national section (I was on the local insert a year or two ago talking about Artists' Open Houses)! You can watch it again here for a week - we're on after the eco-houses. Of course, they made us jump through hoops and it all took much longer than expected - and I had to wait until the bitter end so I could get a lift back to my bike. Great fun, tho!
My trip out with my newish Giant Halfway 7 folding bike didn't start well. The little tyres were squidgy and they had a different valve to my workhorse Giant Stonebreaker! It has Presta valves, but with a bit of fiddling about (you have to unwind the nipple bit to let the air in) and adjusting of my pump (two plastic things inside the business end had to be turned around and replaced) I got them nice and firm. It was on Brighton station that I realised I'd forgotten to bring a lock, so I cycled down the hill and popped the one from my other bike in my bag and so it was back to London Road station for the second time! The trip to London on the fast train was uneventful - I parked my bike (unfolded) in the designated place by the toilet. Then I wheeled it around to Platform 3 at Victoria for the Orpington train (no cycle space, so i stuck it by the door). First obstacle was at West Dulwich ststion - steps! Hmm not too bad going down, but I'd have to lug it up again on the way back. Then onto the streets of London and a cycle lane most of the way to Dulwich Picture Gallery, where a row of cycle racks outside cheered the heart.
I was there for The Age of Enchantment exhibition, subtitled 'Beardsley, Dulac and their Contemporaries 1890-1930'. It was fabulous. Starting with a whole room of delicious Beardsleys, it led onto room upon room of artwork from the golden age of illustration, with some of the greatest penmanship (and penwomanship) known to man (and woman). From Beardsley's Gothic followers such as the saucy Harry Clarke, Laurence Houseman, Charles Ricketts, and Charles Robinson (no William Heath or Thomas) - but it was great to be able to see his pencil markings to the printer in the margins - through obsessive Glasgow ladies, such as Jessie Marion King, whose 'The White Lady' - drawn on vellum with added touches of silver - has some of the most microscopic pen lines I've ever seen! Through the weirdness of Sidney Sime, to a couple of Rackhams, to the wacky Detmold twins (with Edward's furry animals almost as good as Alan Baker's), to a room devoted to Edmund Dulac. Now, I've seen Dulac's before and was amazed by their colour, not always emulated in the printed book, but I admit being slightly disappointed by this selection, which with a couple of exceptions including the poster for the exhibition, appeared dark and overworked. By the last room we are now into the more decorative Art Deco style and the exhibition concludes with a plate by Clarice Cliff to commemorate Frank Brangwyn's ill-fated House of Lords murals. The exhibition continues until 17 February. Take a magnifying glass.
On the way out I popped into a room containing six (out of a possible seven) pictures of St Sebastian by Guido Reni. It was spot the difference with four of them almost identical (one from a place called Ponce in New Zealand) and another pair similarly similar. Two compositions; six paintings! Remarkable. Apparently if your name is Sebastian you can get in free. The cafe was a bit full of old ladies, so I got on my bike to explore Dulwich Village and a splendid Victorian pub The Crown and Greyhound. I entered through the billiard room (alas with no billiard table) and ordered a lunchtime special of soup (brocolli and stilton) and half a sandwich (crayfish) with a pint of Harvey's. Then it was back to West Dulwich, and all those steps up to the platform, back to Victoria, and again a fast train to Brighton just before the rush hour. Final test for the Halfway was shopping, where the 4-for-3 offer on the beer at Sainsbury's put the 10kg limit of the pannier carrier to the test! Luckily it was downhill all the way home. Will have to sort out some smaller panniers that don't catch on the back wheel!
The No. 29, from vibrant metrosexual Brighton to genteel Royal Tunbridge Wells, must be one of the great bus journeys of Britain, wending its way via Lewes (past Harvey's brewery) and Uckfield though the spectacular South Downs and leafy Weald. The occasion was a rare gig by David Devant and his Spirit Wife at the Forum, a former (very grand) toilet on the edge of the common. I alighted at the Pantiles and after checking in at The Swan Hotel, a tavern I can heartily recommend, £60 a night via Late Rooms. [Foz? complained later that his 'boutique' hotel had no tea-making facilities or trouser press, and breakfast comprised dry foreign bread, salami and cheese!]. After a quick visit to the friendly tourist office to get a map, I met up with Peter Chrisp on the High Street and after a visit to a second-hand book shop, where he purchased a copy of Cuban Pete sheet music (with uke chords!) we had coffee in Blends (where the proprietor was the spitting image of Nigel Havers), thence to the Duke of York for a pint or two of Harvey's. Supper proved difficult to find - we were turned away from Pizza Express and Zizzi, but found refuge in an Italian tapas bar called Soprano, where we overordered and observed the pink-wigged hen party opposite! So, stuffed, it was on to the Forum where we caught the end of a set by locals Mr Tom Williams and the Boat, featuring a lady violinist (anyone remember Curved Air?) and harmonica. Then it was the band we came to see. The boys launched straight into 'Cookie' (I think) and powered through a blistering set, Mikey in half glittery costume and cape, Foz? in a monkey suit (I thought he was a teddy bear a la Mark Wallinger until the head made an appearance during the encore, during which he played Mikey's pink uke). Despite being their first gig since the 100 Club, everyone was on top form, and it was a great set. Apparently the band had torn up Mikey's setlist and substituted their own, much to The Vessel's delight. The Forum was full, but very few old faces - Mr Peekaboo was Mr Solo from Brum, and he videod the whole thing on his new gadget. Dai Laffin was there too with a large contingent, and I met a couple from Shoreham.
Next morning, after a hearty breakfast of Alpen (too sweet!), toast, tea and 2 eggs, baked beans, mushrooms and tomato, we met up with Foz? and took the 29 to Isfield where we had 2 hours before the next bus to play on the Lavender Line. Lady Angela, a Peckett Class R2 0-4-0 saddle tank No. 1690 originally from the Gypsum Mines in Nottinghamshire, was waiting in the station, so we jumped into the open-air truck to ride the mile or so to the end of the line and back. We stopped a couple of times on the way back for a photographer to take snaps for next year's brochure - hope we'll be in it! After larking about in the signal box, we had a pint of Old Hookey in the Laughing Fish and jumped back onto the 29 for the ride home.
A dramatic incident! Whilst visiting some Xmas Open Houses I heard that the roof of St Michael's church, famous for its William Morris, Ford Maddox Brown and Edward Burne-Jones stained glass windows, had blown off in the wind. On arriving I saw that a panel of lead had fallen off the bell steeple and had caused some iron guttering to fall through the roof of the side chapel. The fire brigade were making it safe. I managed to visit today: 6 Clifton Street where I had a glass of glögg and a piece of gingerbread, and bought some Country singer xmas decorations by Peter Chrisp and Lisa Wolfe (the Dolly Parton had sold out); The (Kim) Glass House, where I had a cup of tea and a mince pie and bought a linocut card; 15 Chanctonbury Road where i bought neither food not articles; 13 Granville Road, where I bought an artists' book about Beer by Joe Mclaren; and finally The Dragonfly House, where I had a glass of red wine and bought a Sarah Bidwell lavender bag. I'm ashamed to say I didn't go on the Clarion bike ride today!
What a brilliant idea - to recreate a Western radio show at the recently redecorated and de-privatised club The Hanbury Ballroom. Rusty's Round-up was built around a fab house band comprising: Andy Roberts (with a very authentic accent) on geetar; Nick Pynn on fiddle; BJ Cole on pedal steel guitar; Graeme Ross on dog-house bass and Debbie Tyndall, backing vocal. There were also guest appearances from Sleepy Ed Hicks (comedy clawhammer banjo), Debbie Doright, and, the star of the show, youngster Elvin Priestley (played by Suspiciously Elvis). Flame-haired Rusty looked gorgeous on the door and the whole thing was masterminded by Laurie Hilton-Ash. I arrived excited and early and sat down at a table (like we did at the Howe Gelb gig) with the nearest thing to beer they sell there - Tetleys! - to be told I couldn't sit down cos I hadn't booked a meal. So, I was decamped to a bar stool and the place began to fill up with noisy diners (plus the odd cowboy and cowgal), a shame cos you couldn't really hear the spoken parts of the show. The recording over and off air, the evening was rounded off by a set by the excellent Jailbait rocking the joint. Wonder what the well-heeled diners thought of it! Note to self: must get a cowboy hat (and shirt).
I can't remember the last time I saw Frank Sidebottom, but it was over 20 years ago. I don't think his act has changed much, but that's why we like him so much. Being allowed to sing Beatles tracks and Manchester classics like 'There is a light that never goes out' or 'Love will tear us apart' club style, to a jaunty John Shuttleworth keyboard accompaniment, with proper improved (Frank) endings, is a pure joy. And I've never been so close to the great man, and Little Frank, in the sweaty packed-out upstairs Prince Albert (where they are at last doing Harvey's on tap downstairs). Frank must have been boiling in his big head, especially when he kept adding clothes! Check out the Wikipedia page for more titbits on the Timperley troubadour. Support act was the banjotastic hillbilly band Leonard and Bubba’s Delicious Goo-Goo Cluster, starring the Albert's resident sound man on drums.
Meanwhile, the big debate over Led Zeppelin's first UK gig rages on. Leaving aside whether they were Led Zep by then or still the New Yardbirds, the date in question is 15 October 1968 (or 25 October on the Led Zep website). Now, I'm pretty sure I was there, but... by October I would have left Surrey Uni, and I was at the Battersea campus in any case! Was it at Battersea or Guildford? The internet seems to think Guildford, a fair assumption as that's where Surrey Uni is now, but the Great Hall there wasn't built until 1969, and only smallish Boogle gigs (organised by Adrian Boot) were held in the basement of the Chem Eng block! BTW I was just emailed by Peter Panayi, bass player in Helix. Rumours of a Helix reunion are bound to start. Save up for a ticket now!
On Sunday it was vintage bus day on the Bluebell Railway, so I stuck my hand out at St Peter's and got a free ride into the past. I was just in time to see the 'Golden Arrow' of Pullman dining cars pulled by SR U-class 2-6-0 1638 (no name) setting off. My regular train to Kingscote, pulled by O1 Class No 65 was a bit late setting off, but I was treated to the sight of dozens of pheasants, bunnies and two deer along the way. At Horsted Keynes, I copped West Country class pacific 34028 Eddystone going the other way. In the yard at Sheffield Park were SECR Wainwright C-class goods loco No 592, West Country class 34007 Wadebridge, 21C123 Blackmoor Vale and BR Standard 73082 Camelot along with all the other regulars. Bumped into Nick Sayers and family getting off the train! I just missed the 16.05 bus back to Brighton and had half an hour wait, so supped a pint of Bluebell and was driven back in the same not-so-vintage bus through the dark back to Brighton.
The plan was to visit Derby to research my ancestors. My great-great-grandfather Samuel had owned a saw mill there, but after he died my great-grandfather George moved to Liverpool, via Salford, thence to Bury. On Sunday I visited my niece in Little Lever ('C'mon baby, do the Locomotion'), who coincidentally would be spending the next few days in Battle, down here! I got a lift to Bury and spent some time on the station watching the steam trains and drinking beer. Monday morning, it was a bus and a tram and then a train to Broadbottom (past a station called Flowery Field!) where Lois's son Joe was doing gymnastics. Then a fantastic drive through Glossop, along the Snake Pass, to Castleton, there to ascend Peveril Castle. Tea and parkin, then back to New Mills.
On Tuesday I got the scenic TransPeak bus across the Peak District. Couldn't get on at The Swan cos of road works so Lois dashed to Furness Vale (Soldier Dick) and I jumped on. The driver however had printed the Wayfarer ticket before I could utter 'concession' so I paid full price of £8.30, still a bargain. The bus/coach went through Buxton, Bakewell and Matlock, with autumnal scenery all around. At Derby I trundled off to find the B&B. I was bursting for the loo, so popped into the Soul Deli for a coffee. The owner asked me if I was an artist and gave me loads of info on where to go. After checking in at the Chambers House, opposite a gothic ex-art school (For Sale), I walked up Macklin Street, where George had lived (oddly there was a Gerard Street just around the corner), then caught a bus to Uttoxeter New Road to check out Sycamore Villa. But where it should have been (no 131) was no 155! What was going on? Towards Derby, past the old cemetery, the houses were 101, 103 etc. Where had the house gone? I bussed back to Derby and to the Local Studies Library to try find out. I looked at newspapers on microfilm, directories and maps and deduced the road had been renumbered! Why didn't I take a photo when I could have? I'd have to go back tomorrow. I popped into the Silk Mill industrial museum briefly thence to Ye Olde Dolphin Inn for a pint of Spooky, a veg moussaka, and a pint of Aleoween. Phoned Paul (friend of Avy) back at the B&B and he suggested a pint at... the Dolphin. So another Spooky then a walk to the Flowerpot and a pint of something or other. I'd asked Phil Dobson to recommend some pubs in Derby and I'd done two of them already.
Wednesday, I had my unimaginative veggie brekky (beans, tinned tomatoes, egg and hash browns) then set off for the art gallery to check out the Joseph Wrights. Then back to the Local Studies Library to finish off a few checks. I'd discovered that Sam's steam saw mill was between City and Mansfield Roads. No loo at the library so I popped into the Cathedral coffee shop for a coffee and soup, then across to the cathedral proper for a quick look. Over the bridge was where the saw mill should have been, but it was a housing estate. Back over the bridge to North Parade where Sam had just bought a house before he'd died in St Alkmund's churchyard (demolished in the 1960s to build the ring road). I didn't know the number but took a snap of those fine Georgian buildings anyway. Final task was to locate Whitecross Street - I traipsed for miles to find it was now a modern housing estate. I should have checked these out on Google Earth first! Bus back to Derby, then bus back to Sycamore Villa to take a snap, then to M&S in the massive brand new Westfield mall. Supper at Paul and Jane's (who live near the bus stop I ended up at when tracing Whitecross Street), taxi home.
Thursday, checked out at 10am, walked to station via Westfield again. The whole south of Derby seems to be new, so there was no point checking out Siddals and Copeland Streets. At the station, discovered that there was an ASLEF strike so no 12.04 to London (I had hours to wait anyway) so popped along to the Brunswick Inn (another Phil recommendation, and the best) the other side of some lovely railway cottages - a pub and a brewery! I had a lovely pint of Father Mike's 5.8% at £2.60 and a bowl of soup. This and the cottages were to be demolished but were thankfully saved. Full train back to the new hi-tech St Pancras ( a student next to me very kindly let me watch a Bruce Willis film 'Hostage' on his iPod), and another full Thameslink home.
I nearly didn't get to the autumn steam gala at the East Lancs Railway in Bury. The train from London Road was 8 minutes late, which meant I missed the fast train to Victoria and got to Euston with only 2 minutes to spare. Luckily the ticket man took pity on me and only charged me an extra fiver for the next train. The ticket to Manchester only cost £8.25. Compare that with four quid for the tube ride across London (must charge up that Oyster!) and £3.20 for the tram ride to Bury! On Saturday I got the bus into Bury, went on the market to buy some V-Pud vegetarian black puddings from Chadwick's, some black peas, and a hot butter pie from Stone's in Hornby Buildings, The Rock, which is due to be demolished soon, along with the Odeon next door, to make way for a new Debenhams and yuppy flats. The old slice of Bury opposite the Odeon (including Thompson's chippy) has already been flattened so there will be little left of the town soon! So, down to the trains, passing a couple of vintage buses (a red Rawtenstall and a green Salford) outside Bolton Street Station. LMS 5690 Leander was pulling freight, so I hopped on the train to Heywood pulled by the gorgeous LNER V2 4771 Green Arrow in apple green livery. Back at Bury the loco was changed to BR standard class 4 2-6-0 76079 which took us to Rawtenstall and back, via Ramsbottom. I had a nice bottle of Moorehouse's Black Cat on the train. Also running was a GWR double header of 2-8-0 3802 and 4936 Kinlet Hall. I also spotted an LMS tank pottering about, which I assume was Jinty 47324. There's a complete list of locos at the ELR here. So to the Trackside bar (which always has a fine selection of real ales) for a pint of Knocker Up and to watch the engines shunt in the twilight. Then it was back to my sister's for black peas, parkin and a firework display.
